The magical island of Sardinia

Sardinia is located off the west coast of Italy just below the island of Corsica. The second largest island in the Mediterranean it runs approximately 250 kilometres from north to south and 110 kilometres from east to west. Italian is the main language of this vastly diverse island although various regions of the island have traditional languages of their own from Catalan in the region of Alghero through to Campidanese in the south.

The landscape of this stunning island is incredibly varied, from white sandy beaches on the coast to the mountainous terrain in the central parts of the island. From cities like Cagliari in the south to old coastal towns like Alghero in the north you will find a varied array of architecture and culture. In the region of Nuoro, at the heart of Sardinia, you will find villages and towns 800 metres above sea level that have been completely untouched by the course of time. In the northeast of the island lies the famous Costa Smerelda (the emerald coast) playground of the rich and famous. The island is also peppered with a vast array of archaeological remains including the Nuraghes, (a stone tepee like structure) which are among some of the oldest constructions known to man.

The cuisine of Sardinia is just as varied as it’s terrain with an as expected abundance of seafood dishes to be found in coastal regions including what is said to be some of the finest lobster in the world. All this having been said though the traditional delicacies of Sardinia are to be found in land where your taste buds will be tantalised with wood roast suckling pig, wild boar and traditional Sardinian sausage.

Famous the world over the beaches of Sardinia are truly something that must be seen to be believed. Crystal clear waters and white sand that runs for miles, Sardinia truly is a touch of paradise in the Mediterranean. Sardinia has always traditionally been a place of holiday for Italians and a very well kept secret due to its lack of connectivity to the rest of Europe. Ryanair & Easyjet have changed this. Now with flights daily from Gatwick to Olbia, Stanstead to Alghero, Luton to Cagliari & Liverpool to Alghero , Sardinia has opened its doors to the UK and the rest of Europe.

With a very short winter and long summer Sardinia is the ideal location for your holidays.. There are though strict laws in place within Sardinia to preserve the landscape and not allow the island to be over developed. For instance construction of new property on the coast line has been restricted to not allow any building within three kilometres of the sea and there are also many other stringent regulations as to the height of constructions so as not to interfere with the ambient of the terrain. All of this means that what already exists in Sardinia can be used to its full potential without the tranquillity of the island being ruined.

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Other places of interest within an hours drive;

The islands of Tavolara and Molara off the Northeast coast of Sardinia can be reached by boat with a journey of about 20 minutes from Porto San Paolo, Olbia and Golfo Aranci. Tavolara with its stretched rectangular shape is a large limestone rise resting on an underwater granite base. The island is 4 km long with the rocky part in the middle reaching levels as high as 565m above sea level. The coastline is characterised by high vertical cliffs, which are very difficult to reach, unfortunately a large part of the island is not accessible due to a military restricted area. The side of the island that faces Sardinia, which is also the part where the boats arrive and is called “Spalmatore di Terra”, is flat with a little marina, a small built-up area with a few restaurants and some nice beaches.

The island of Molara, set South from Tavolara, has a slight circular shape and is rather flat with only 150m at his highest point. It is the emerged part of a large underwater granite base surrounded by beautiful beaches. The ruins scattered on the island show signs of human presence since ancient times, like the ruins of the Medieval village of Gurguray. On a hillock called Monte Castello, one can see the ruins of Medieval fortification walls, built to defend the island from the Saracens.

For the joy of the nature lovers, this paradise still has about 150 mouflons, rare wild goats that only leave in Sardinia and large flocks of Cormorans.
The crystalline water and the interesting coastline make the two islands a very popular destination with divers.

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Porto Cervo, the heart of the Emerald Coast, is the exclusive holiday place favoured by the rich and famous that come to this paradise to enjoy the sea and the nightlife. The architecture of this summer spot fits with its surroundings, villas with dry stone walls and immaculately kept gardens scattered with Mediterranean vegetation and low palm trees. Porto Cervo has two harbours, Porto Vecchio (Old Port) is on the South-eastern side and dates back to the 1960s’, the new harbour is equipped with the most up-to-date infrastructures to cater for the international marine traffic.

At the height of summer the harbours become literally the showroom of the most beautiful and biggest yachts that money can buy, many tourists walk past the yachts admiring such excess. Anyone not wanting to use the port may anchor in the bay, where one can enjoy total privacy. Porto Cervo has a Yacht Club, some exclusive hotels and restaurants, such as the renowned Cala di Volpe, great shops and numerous night bars and clubs. The nightlife evolves around La Piazzetta.

For the golf lovers there is one of the greatest golf courts in the world. Set between the sapphire bays of Pevero and Cala di Volpe, Pevero is the supreme masterpiece of the greatest of American golf designers, Robert Trent Jones. Described by several golf writers as 'the most beautiful place to play golf in the world', the course is also splendidly demanding. It insists on absolute accuracy if you are to keep out of the savage rough of rocks and the tangled, perfumed herbs of the macchia. Despite its charm and challenges, the 18 hole Pevero is rarely crowded and you can walk into the clubhouse and tee off without queues. The clubhouse has splendid views over the course, spacious locker rooms, a swimming pool, a card room, bar, well-stocked pro-shop and one of the best restaurants on the Emerald Coast. You can hire clubs, trolleys and electric golf carts.

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Nuoro is located in the heart of Sardinia, occupying the middle of the island from the east to the west coasts. This is the region people head directly to when they’re interested in discovering the real Sardinia. Neither the Romans nor the Spanish nor any other foreigners have ever succeeded in conquering this wilderness. Over the centuries the remoteness of this region has created a culture in which ancient customs and traditions infuse everyday life to a greater extent than just about anywhere else on the island. In many villages magnificently colourful traditional clothing is still worn, and visitors who witness one of the countless festivals that are held here will come away convinced that the ancient rituals still thrive in this region.

The landscape around Nuoro is wild and hilly. The town is set on top of a mountain which is surrounded by the Gennargentum and Supramonte ranges, the latter the subject of much Sardinian folklore. The capital city of the region Barbagia is regarded as the cultural and intellectual centre of the island. Artists, authors and poets gather in Barbagia, both native Sardinians and those who have chosen to make their home on the island. Barbagia also has a long and distinguished crafts tradition. It was the home of Grazia Deledda, Nobel Prize winner in Literature in 1926.

If you like captivating landscapes, walking and riding paths that follow old shepherd’s trails, extravagantly romantic places with rare species of birds; or if you’re interested in archaeological finds or in visiting the passageways and grottos under the mountains around Oliena with its fascinating folklore and legends; and if at the same time you’d like to have the Mediterranean sea and Sardinia’s idyllic coast line close at hand, then Nuoro is the place for you, Nuoro will fascinate you entirely.

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Olbia, located on the Northeast coast, is the doorway to the Emerald Coast with daily flights to and from main land Italy and Europe. Tourists also arrive by Ferry as Olbia is one of the main ports in Sardinia. Those arriving via water will admire the spectacular view of the city resting on a plain surrounded by hills. The city of Olbia many forms of entertainment and a good selection of restaurant, bars and shops, but the main tourist attractions are centred around the territory and particularly the coastline. Beaches and rocky coastline alternate creating a beautiful spectacle of nature with long stretches of fine white sands and crystal clear water.

North from Olbia the natural inlets one after the other contribute to the beauty of this part of the island. The hamlet of San Pantaleo set in the rocks is loved by many international artists who have chosen it as their home. Porto Rotondo, the heart of the emerald coast famous the world over and very popular destination amongst the rich and famous, is only 15 km away from Olbia. This coast is a natural paradise by day that wakes up at night with some of the most fashionable and exclusive clubs, such as the Billionaire owned by formula 1 boss Flavio Briatore.

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The Grotto of Ispinigoli is famous for its spectacular stalagmites, the opening cave has a magnificent 38m high stalagmitic column and the walls have a mixture of wonderful concretions and limestone cascades of great beauty. These caves show the presence of man in ancient times as early as the prenuragic period when it is believed to have been used as a place of worship. The famous chasm inside the cave is in fact called the “Cavern of the Virgins” from the ancient belief of human offerings.
The Grotto is open to tourists from April to October from 9a.m. to 1p.m. and from 3p.m to 6p.m.; admission fee: 7 Euros.

To get there drive on the road from Dorgali to Orosei, a few km from Dorgali there is a signpost for the grotto.

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The Bue Marino Grotto near Cala Gonone can be accessed only by boat and in Summer a daily transport service is available from the harbour. The Grotto is famous for being one of the last habitats of the monk seal, although today is very rare to see it, and for the height of some of the caves. There are traces that show the presence of man since ancient times as early as the Neolithic Age, when it was probably used as a place of worship.

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Orosei, set in the middle of the Eastern coast of Sardinia, is a secluded quiet village easily accessible via the famous “Orientale Sarda” SS 125 that links it with Olbia and the Emerald coast, and national route SS 129 that links it with Nuoro and from there with the rest of the island. The territory of Orosei has many facets benefiting from the presence of the mountain, the Cedrino river, the marsh and the sea all in such close space. Thanks to the proximity to the sea the climate is mild in winter and the heath in summer is eased by the pleasant sea breeze. In recent years, the development of tourist facilities has favoured the area, which has become increasingly popular with tourists. The typical food of this region combines the flavours of the sea with those of the products from the land and the Cedrino valley in such manner to enhance the qualities of the latter with the freshness of the fish.

The beaches of Orosei cover 40 km of coastline and start at the border with Siniscola, with which town it shares the beach of Bidderosa. From North to South the first beach is Cala Ginepro, then Cala Liberotto and Fuile ‘e Mare. All the beaches accessible via land have been surrounded by tourist developments, but they have kept their natural beauty and wildness. This stretch of coastline is in fact characterised by vertical rocks and many little coves that can only be reached after a long walk. Cala Luna is one of the most beautiful beaches in the Mediterranean, but it is not easy to reach: to get to it it’s necessary to walk for at least two hours. An easier route would be by boat from Santa Maria Navarrese. The limestone wall surrounding the Gulf of Orosei is one of the destinations favoured by rock-climbing and free-climbing lovers; climbing is the only way to reach certain beaches and charming bays via land.

A little further afield;

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The Catalan town of Alghero is located on the Northwest coast of Sardinia. Known throughout the world for its stunning beaches and characteristic old town centre it is fast becoming one of Europe’s holiday hotspots.
Alghero is an old fishing town that has embraced the tourist industry with two very large arms. Sprawling out along the coast line Alghero offers the tourist both the opportunity of a beach holiday or a small city break. If you are looking to just relax and be somewhere that you can walk out the door and be on the beach you must stay in the Lido area.

The Lido is Alghero’s own beach that runs all the way form Alghero to Fertilia, a small hamlet of Alghero. There are a number of hotels located in the area with sea views and private sun beds on the beach for residents. In the summer months the Lido comes to life with a number of bars, restaurants and pizzerias either on the beach or in the area and when the sun goes down you can find live music and parties on the beach.

For those who don’t want to be on the beach and want to experience a little more of the cultural side of Alghero there is the old town. Dating back to the 12th century the old town centre is truly something that must be seen to be fully appreciated. Have lunch along the battlements looking out to sea or take a stroll through the shops in the warren of cobble stone streets. There are a number of churches and historical places of interest to visit and many guided excursions to help make sure you do not miss anything.

The area of Alghero does of course spread beyond the boundaries of the city itself. There is Porto Conte with its natural wildlife reserve that spreads along the coast line in complete natural beauty. Reachable either by land or by boat excursion there is Capo Caccia and Neptune’s Grotto which is a must for any visitor to Alghero.
Away form the coast there is also much to see and do.

Why not visit an Agriturismo, a working farm that has lodging and restaurant facilities serving up only produce from the farm.

As mentioned earlier Alghero is a Catalan town and although much of the cuisine available is Italian there are a few Catalan influences to be found. Why not try Paella Algherese or Catalan lobster (served cold with fresh tomato and onion). There are of course many Sardinian specialities to be tried such as roast suckling pig or Seadas, a pastry filled with Goats cheese and then dribbled with honey.

Restaurants In Alghero Include;

Ristorante Al Tuguri
Via Maiorca 113, Alghero
Tel 079.976772

Ristorante La Lepanto Via C. Alberto 135, Alghero Tel 079.979116

Ristorante Pavone P.za Sulis 3/4, Alghero 079.979584

Ristorante Pietro Via A. Machin 20, Alghero 079.979645

Ristorante Rafel Via Lido 20, Alghero 079.950385

Ristorante Andreini Sergio Via Arduino 45, Alghero
079.982098

Ristorante La Speranza Località La Speranza 079.917010

Trattoria;

Maristella Via Fratelli Kennedy 9,
Località Maristella Alghero 079.942022

Il Macchiavello Via Cavour 7, Alghero 079.980628

Al Refettorio (wine-bar) Vicolo Adami, 43 Alghero 079.9731126

The climate in Alghero allows for a perfect holiday all year round. The summer months get up to about 35 degrees and throughout the day in the winter the temperature never drops much below 15 degrees.
A great place for children and adults alike, Alghero is definitely worth a visit.

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Cagliari, From the 1870s, with the unification of Italy, the city experienced a century of rapid growth. Many outstanding buildings were erected by the end of the 18th century during the office of Mayor Ottone Bacaredda. Many of these buildings combined influences from Art Nouveau together with the traditional Sardinian taste for flower decoration: an example is the white marble City Hall near the port. Ottone Bacaredda is also famous for the violent repression of one of the earlier worker strikes in the beginning of the 20th century.

During the Second World War, Cagliari was heavily bombed by the Allies in February 1943. In order to escape from the bombardments and the misery of the destroyed town, many people left Cagliari and moved to the country or rural villages, often living with friends and relatives in overcrowded houses. This flee from the town is knwon as "sfollamento" (deserting). After the Italian truce with the Allies in September 1943, the German Army took control of Cagliari and the island, but soon retreated peacefully in order to reinforce their positions in mainland Italy. The American Army then took control of Cagliari. Cagliari was strategically important during the war because of its location in the Mediterranean Sea. Many airports were near Cagliari (Elmas, Monserrato, Decimomannu, currently a NATO airbase) from which airplanes could fly to Northern Africa or mainland Italy and Sicily.

After the war, the population of Cagliari boosted and many apartment blocks were erected in new residential districts.

Cagliari is home to the football team Cagliari Calcio, winner of the Italian league championship in 1970, with the team led by one of the greatest Italian strikers of all times, Gigi Riva.

The old part of the city (called 'Castello', the castle) lies on top of a hill, with a wonderful view of the Gulf of Cagliari (aka Angels Gulf). Most of its city walls are intact, and feature the two 13th century white lime-stone towers, St. Pancras tower and the Elephant tower. The local white lime-stone was also used to build the walls of the city and many builidings. D.H. Lawrence, in his lively memoir of a voyage to Sardinia,Sea and Sardinia, undertaken in January 1921, described the impressive effect of the warm Mediterranean sun-light on the white lime-stone city and compared Cagliari to a "white Jerusalem".

In Castello you can visit the Cathedral, which was repaired in the 1930s turning the former Baroque facade into a Medieval Pisan style facade, more akin to the original appearance of the church. Near the Cathedral is the palace of the Provincial Government (which used to be the island's governor's palace before 1900). In Castello is also the Sardinian Archaeological Museum, the biggest and most important regarding the prehistoric Nuragic civilisation of Sardinia. Finally, Castello hosts many craftsmen workshops in its tightened and scenic lanes.

The other early districts of the town(Marina, Stampace, Villanova) retain much of their original appeal and still seem to function as distinct villages within the town.

Cagliari, Roman Amphitheatre Cagliari was inhabited since pre-historic periods for its favourable position between the sea and a fertile plain, its being sourrounded by two swamps (which afforded defences from enemies from inner lands) and its vicinity to high and green mountains (to which people could evacuate if everything else was lost). Some testimonies of pre-historic inhabitants were found in Monte Claro and in Cape Sant'Elia.

An outstanding testimony of the Roman domination is the Roman Amphitheatre. This is a unique monument in the world because it is the only Roman amphitheatre carved into a block of rock (the typical lime-stone on which Cagliari is built). The Amphitheatre still stages open-air operas and concerts during the summer.

The districts built in the 1930s spot some nice examples of Art Deco artichecture and some controversial examples of Fascist neoclassicism, such as the Justice Court (Palazzo di Giustizia) in the Republic Square. The Justice Court is close to the biggest town park, Monte Urpinu, with its pine trees and artificial lakes. The park includes a vast area of a hill. Visitors can reach the top of the hill by car and enjoy a nice view of Castello district, the gulf, the swamps and the beach.

Cagliari has one of the longest beaches in an Italian town. The Poetto beach stretches for 13 km. and was famous for its white fine-grained sand. A recent controversial intervention to save the beach from erosion has slightly altered the original texture of the sand.

Climate:
Cagliari is an ideal location for sailing,hiking and outdoor sports. It has a mild climate, often refreshed by northern-west winds. It is close to other beautiful sea-side locations, such as Chia or Villasimius, still relatively unspoilt by tourism and is also close to mountain parks, such as Monte Arcosu or Maidopis, with large forests and wildlife (Sardinian deers, wild boars, etc.).

Cagliari has some peculiar gastronomic traditions. Many dishes are based on the wide variety of fish and sea food available. Although it is possible to trace influences from Spanish gastronomy, Cagliaritanian food has a distintctive and unique character. Very good wines are also part of Cagliaritanians' dinners: excellent wines are in fact produced in the nearby vineyards of the Campidano plain.

Life in Cagliari has been vividly depicted by Sergio Atzeni, who set many of his novels and short stories in ancient and modern Cagliari. Among these, available in English, is "Bakunin's son".

A church in Cagliari gives its name to Buenos Aires. The Spaniard who founded Buenos Aires visited the church of Bonaria (fair winds) and asked for help from the Mary of Bonaria, to whom the church is dedicated. The church faces the sea and was allegedly built where a sailor landed after the Mary of Bonaria appeared in the midst of a tempest and saved the sailor and his ship from sinking.

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